Cheese: Morbier

Given the abundance of cheese France produces, I’ve decided to tackle the subject once a month in a series of posts that bring some of the lesser known cheeses, (at least outside the France borders) into focus.  Some cheeses have a complicated history which I try to boil down to what makes them unique and notable, and others simply developed from “farm cheeses” made to be consumed where they were produced.  Either way, “Cheese” gives me a chance to explore one of the gastronomic delights of France and justify my excursions to a cheese monger as “research”.  And the research can be oh, so grueling…

Don’t let the blue line fool you; this cheese has nothing to do with Roquefort or other blues.  In fact, Morbier very mild, delicate, and slightly nutty.  The line that runs through the center is its foremost characteristic.  As the cheese was produced, a layer of protective ash was placed over the curds and then finished off with additional milk gathered in the evening.  Nowadays, the layer is decorative, vegetal in origins, and tastes no differently from the rest of the cheese.

Morbier is made from cow’s milk, most often non-pasteurized, and is considered a semi-soft cheese.  The milk is exclusively produced from two types of cows, the Montbéliarde and Simmental Française whose diet is uniquely pastoral grass and hay.  The cheese is named for the village of the same name in the Jura Mountains of the Franche-Comté region, not far from the Swiss border.  Morbier received AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) standing in December 2000 and since then its production has tripled to over 9,000 tons annually.

 

Cheese: Brique du Forez

Brique du Forez

Given the abundance of cheese France produces, I’ve decided to tackle the subject once a month in a series of posts that bring some of the lesser known cheeses, (at least outside the France borders) into focus.  Some cheeses have a complicated history which I try to boil down to what makes them unique and notable, and others simply developed from “farm cheeses” made to be consumed where they were produced.  Either way, “Cheese” gives me a chance to explore one of the gastronomic delights of France and justify my excursions to a cheese monger as “research”.  And the research can be oh, so grueling…

Cheese: Brique du Forez

Christophe noted a new cheese had been purchased when he opened the fridge this morning, “Whoa, not what I was expecting before my coffee”, he said taking a step back.  “What did you buy?”

Brique du Forez is a soft cheese, made from goat or sheep milk and sometimes mixed with cow’s milk.  Its form is notable: rectangular, 17 centimeters by 8 centimeters and 2.5 centimeters high.  The name, brique, comes from the form of its pine mold in which it is aged.   It is fabricated in Auvergne, Puy de Dôme, which is located in the central and rather cold part of the country.  Traditionally, it is made from raw milk, but like with many other cheeses, its producers are caving into market trends and creating a pasteurized version.

No considerable history on the cheese has been found, except for the fact that the fermentation process has been modified from pressure to the use of lactic curds over the last 20-30 years.

Its texture is creamy, soft and has a slightly hazelnut taste.

A Lesson in Geography - Via My Plate

One thing that bothers Christophe is when I jump up at the end of the meal and insist on taking a photo of the cheese he is about to open.  “You’ve had all the time in the world to take this photo, why do you always wait until the last minute?”  He complains.  I can’t blame him; leaving him with a slice of bread in hand and a knife in the other is not exactly the most intelligent thing to do.  But, very few people get away with what I do, so I take this moment as a won challenge.

When he finally gets his cheese back, Christophe dives into it: Tomme de Savoie.  Learning about French cheeses is like a geography lesson.  It’s more than seeing where they are on the map; it’s about learning the terrain.  For example, when I ask if Tomme de Savoie is made from cows’ milk, I get a “bien sûr”, as if I had just asked if the Earth spins. 

“Why, bien sûr?”  I ask.  “What is so certain about that?” 

And that is where the geography lesson starts.

Savoy or Savoie is located in the Rhône-Alpes, or the South-West region of France, right next to Italy.  It has a complex climate; it can have lots of perturbations; hot summers and cold winters, or even areas called Mediterranean climates (hot, dry summers).  This is the French Alps, so it’s mountainous, and with the high cliffs comes the plunging green valleys.  Clearly, there is a logic and the origins of Tomme de Savoie, and like most cheeses, reflect the humble beginning of the peasants who live in the region centuries ago.  They had cows, which were suited for the land, and thus their cheese was made from their milk.  A little like not seeing the forest through the trees, I didn’t see what was obvious.

It’s a good lesson in logic once the terrain is better known.  I know oranges don’t come from Maine and wheat isn’t grown in Arizona.  Not all French would be so confident in that statement, but they do know their own country and what comes from where.  This lesson is learned at the dinner table, from the Alsacian wines to the Southern fruits to the territorial cheeses.  France is small compared to the United States, but it is comprised of lots of various climates that change dramatically from one mile to the next.  The local products reflect the land and knowing what’s going on climatically and geographically helps one see why certain products are produced where they are.  Once the connection is made, reason kicks in and bien sûr, of course Tomme de Savoie is made with cow’s milk.  It couldn’t be made with anything else.

Cheese: Chaource

Chaource

Given the abundance of cheese France produces, I’ve decided to tackle the subject once a month in a series of posts that bring some of the lesser known cheeses, (at least outside the France borders) into focus.  Some cheeses have a complicated history which I try to boil down to what makes them unique and notable, and others simply developed from “farm cheeses” made to be consumed where they were produced.  Either way, “Cheese” gives me a chance to explore one of the gastronomic delights of France and justify my excursions to a cheese monger as “research”.  And the research can be oh, so grueling…

Spring and summer are usually the season for fresh cheeses, particularly those made from goat or sheep’s milk.  Many cow’s milk cheeses are better in the fall and winter months, but one cheese I’ve had is ideal for summer: Chaource.

Named for its village of origin in Northeastern France, Chaource’s first noted history is in 1531.  One legend notes that monks from the Abby de Pontigny taught local peasants how to make it.  Originally destined to be consumed on the farm it was fabricated, Chaource acquired its notary during the 19^th Century when cheese connoisseurs would resell the cheese in the local markets of Paris or Lyon.  

Exclusively made from cow’s milk, Chaource takes long to fabricate and is aged between three weeks and two months.  It has had the title AOC or l’Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée since 1970 which means it has a controlled designation of origins and must be manufactured within a certain region.  Chaource is cylindrical in form and is fabricated in two sizes: petit (between 250 and 380 grams) and grand (450 – 700 grams).  It has a very thin eatable rind, is extremely creamy, and develops a slightly hazelnut flavor as it ages.  Produced in the Champagne region, Chaource logically is paired with Champagne or other local wines such as Chablis or a Rosé.

Cheese: Selles-sur-cher

Selles-sur-cher

I love this subject, but more importantly, I love doing the research on this subject.  Sometimes, it can be a bit grueling, tasting all that amazing cheese and all, but I sacrifice myself for the knowledge and for the possibility of sharing that with you.

This month’s cheese is Selles-sur-cher; another unpasteurized goat cheese, which is timely for the season.  Most goat cheeses are at their peak in spring and summer, and some fresh varieties (think softer, younger cheeses) are only available for short amounts of time.  Selles-sur-cher is available year around due to industrial production, but if artisanal, it has limited availability.

The first notable characteristic about this cheese is its rind, which is bluish-black and is a fine mixture of ash and salt.  A thin layer of mold forms on this which is not to be removed when eaten.  The rind is responsible for the cheese’s lightly salty and smoky taste.  The white interior is mild, firm, and slightly nutty.  Overall, this is a creamy dry cheese, but it is considerable light.

Selles-sur-cher is produced in the Centre region of France in the community of Selles-sur-cher.  Selles-sur-cher is a mid-sized town of approximately 4,500 inhabitants and is located about 115 miles southwest of Paris.  The town is also known for its historic château and its abbey (Notre-Dame-la-Blanche) which was constructed in the 12^th Century. 

The origin of the cheese is humble.  It started out as farmed produced for family consumption, but it grew in development during the 19^th Century.  In 1986, it was declared AOC (appellation d'origine contrôlée) and later gained the title AOP (appellation d'origine protégée) in 1996 making Selles-sur-cher a cheese controlled by its conditions of production and its geographic origins.

Château at Selles-sur-cher

Cheese: Rocamadour

Cheese and spring.  One might think they do not go hand in hand, but I beg to differ.  Cheeses, just like fruits and vegetables, are seasonal and nothing compares to the plethora of flavors springtime brings to cheeses.  Evidently, what animals graze upon influences their milk and thus the cheese produced from it. Springtime flora is particularly rich and abundant, and the cheeses made from it can vary considerable.  One of the most popular cheeses of the season is chèvre, or goat cheese.  There is a very wide range of goat cheeses, ranging from creamy fresh spreadable cheeses to crumbly and dry.  And while I love them all, one chèvre holds a particular place in my heart: Rocamadour.

Rocamadour is a non-pasteurized cheese made from the Alpine or Saanen goat breeds.  It’s small (35 grams or less than the weight of two tablespoons), soft rind, and extremely creamy.  It comes from the Midi-Pyrènèes in Mid-Southern France and is named after the medieval village baring the same name.  In 1451, a law allowed la dîme, or tax, to be paid in rocamadour by the peasants.  It gained AOC or l’Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée standing in 1996, which means it has a controlled designation of origins and must be manufactured within a certain region.

Rocamadour has a distinct aroma.  Once familiar with it, it is difficult to miss this very present characteristic, which grows stronger as it ages.  Full bodied wines, such as those from Cahors, are well paired with this cheese.

Each year on the Sunday of Pentecost, (May 27^th, this year) the village of Rocamadour holds La Fête des Fromages to highlight the values of this cheese and those who produce it.  While I don’t know if it will happen this year, I plan one day to make my pilgrimage to pay my homage to those who preserve this gastronomic patrimony.

Cheese: Brie

Paris: paradise for Brie cheese.  Brie gets its name from the region of Brie, which is situated just east of Paris.  The different types of Brie get their name from their origins of production, such as the cities of Meaux or Melun; however, it is also produced in Germany, England, Canada, and the United States.

Brie can be made from both pasteurized and unpasteurized cows’ milk.  It is a soft rind cheese, covered by a fine, eatable mold and characteristically is mild, aromatic, and lightly acidic. Both the brie de Meaux and the brie de Melun carry the  l'appellation d'origine contrôlé (AOC) label which means the brie must be made within those territorial limits to carry the name.

Brie has unclear origins; however, was considered a favorite by Charlemagne, nobles, and royalty. It was so popular within dignified circles that in 1815, the Congress of Vienna officially recognized brie as the roi de fromages or king of cheeses.  The brie de Meaux was ordained Prince des fromages et premier des desserts (prince of cheeses and the first of desserts).  Popular among all social classes, it was said that, “Brie, liked by the rich and the poor; preached the equality that we never imagined possible” (1793).

Cheese: Mont d’Or

            In the department Haut Doubs of the region Franche-Comté, an unpasteurized cow’s milk cheese of uncompromising quality is produced: Le Mont d’Or.   This slightly pressed, soft cheese holds AOC (Appellation d’Origine Controlée) standing and is produced just along the Swiss border.  There are many particularities about this cheese.  First, it is also produced in Switizerland where it also carries an AOC standing, and together the two cheeses are referred to le vacherin.  Second, the pastures are at least 700 meters in altitude and consist of rich grasses which add to the color and mild creamy texture of the cheese.  The cheese is produced only from mid-August to mid-March from Montbéliarde cows.  Milk from these same cows is used to create Comté cheese in the spring and summer.  Once aged, the cheese is encircled by pine bark before the aging is complete in its cylindrical wood box.  The bark adds a slight flavor that becomes milder closer to the center of the cheese.

            Mont d’Or has a slight aroma, and to some might even be considered a “stinky cheese”; however, I find it to have less of an odor than a Reblochon or Camembert de Normandy.  It’s actually quite mild and delicate.  The rind is slightly stronger in taste, but that is common in soft mold cheeses.  It can be served at room temperature, or warmed in in the oven then spooned over boiled potatoes or served with bread.

Cheese: Reblochon

As January slowly moves past, and February threatens snow and cold in France, one thing is on many people’s minds: spending the winter vacation skiing.  France is full of ski lodges from high in the Alps to south in the Pyrenees Mountains, and after a long day of hitting the slopes one hungers for a filling dish as satisfying as a day on the mountain.  That is when one’s mind starts to drift to a tartiflette.  A ski lodge favorite, tartiflette is a winter time dish that consists of sliced sautéed potatoes, caramelized onions, smoky bacon, and a little white wine drenched in a melted rich cheese that harmonizes all the ingredients together, and that cheese is none other than reblochon.

            Reblochon is another cheese from the Haute-Savoie region that is Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée.  This region is north of Italy and just west of Switzerland with pastoral lands that are at least 500 meters in altitude.  Reblochon is a pressed, uncooked cheese made from unpasteurized cow’s milk; it is soft, flat, and round and weighs roughly just over a pound.  Reblochon is unique, not only for its creamy, mild flavor, but also because it is produced twice a day directly after milking and is made using milk from a single herd.

             This cheese was first produced in the 13^th Century and during that time, any farmer who rented land in the region paid the landowner according to the amount of milk produced.  When the landowner would come to measure the milk, the farmer would only partially milk the cows.  Then, once the landowner was gone, the farmer would re-milk or reblocher the herd.  The milk from this second milking was creamier and richer in fat, and was then used to create the cheese known today as reblochon.



Tartiflette



Cheese: Tomme de Savoie

            “Tomme” is a category of cheese whose principle characteristic is that it is farm made.  Tommes can be made from any type of milk and are often weigh between 2 – 5 pounds.  During fabrication, the milk curds are pressed, but not cooked and are not intended to be kept for long periods of time.

            The Tomme de Savoie comes from the Rhone-Alps / Savoie region and has the IGP title (Indication Géographique Protégée) which means it must be made within the region to carry the name Tomme de Savoie.  Unpasteurized cow’s milk is pressed for 5 – 8 hours, and once turned out of the mold, is aged in caves between 8-13 degree Celsius for 1 to 3 months.  During this time, each cheese is regularly turned and brushed with salt to develop its semi hard gray rind.  The cheese itself is rich and mild, but develops more character as it ages.  It is best to serve with a fruity red wine such as a Côte du Rhône or a Côte de Brouilly.

            Tomme de Savoie is the oldest cheese from the Savoie region and dates back to the 14^th Century.  It was created by rural farmers who used the milk byproduct from butter and modern cheese makers contest that this humble origins continue to contribute to the cheese’s rustic appearance.

Cheese: Beaufort

It’s handsome (beau); it’s strong (fort); it’s Beaufort.

From the Savoie region of the Rhône-Alpes, this classic French cheese is made from unpasteurized cow’s milk, specifically the breads Tarine and Abondance.  These dairy cows feed on a diverse vegetation in the Alpine Mountains which account for the cheese’s rich floral and slightly nutty flavor.  There are two versions: summer and winter.  The summer Beaufort or Beaufort d’eté is made from June to October and the winter Beaufort or Beaufort d’Alpage is made in the mountain chalets at an altitude of 1500 meters.  The Beaufort d’Alpage is white and the Beaufort d’eté is pale yellow due to the flowers the cows eat.

            Beaufort is hard cheese and made in enormous wheels weighing 80 – 100 pounds.  It ages at least 4 months and is constantly rubbed with a brine to form its characteristic concave and ivory-yellow speckled rind.

Beaufort is not a local cheese for us, so it’s not easy to find.  We were recently at a market and its highlight was a cheese monger from the Alps regions who had a half wheel of Beaufort at her stand.  We bought some without hesitation.  Imagine everything wonderfully stereotypically about bell clad cows grazing in green flowing pastures under snow covered Alps and you’ve got yourself a fair image of what is Beaufort cheese.  It’s rich, it’s honest, it is what a cheese should be.  

Cheese: Cantal

Cantal is a pressed, mild semi hard cheese made from unpasteurized cow’s milk.  It comes from the Cantal region of France, which is centrally located and is about 2/3 way down the country.  It is believed to be the oldest cheese in existence and there is evidence to that dating back to the 1^st Century.  It holds the AOC or Appellation d’Origine Controlée title, which means it needs to be made within a certain region.

Cantal cheese is firm, and depending on its age, very mild.  It has three distinct categorizes:

·         Cantal jeune (aged 1-2 months)

·         Cantal entre-deux or Cantal doré (aged 2-6 months)

·         Cantal vieux (aged more than 6 months).

The best way I can describe the difference between the aged cheeses is to compare this to the terms “mild” and “sharp” used for cheddar.  “Mild” is just that; it is creamy and soft on the palette.  A young Cantal, or Cantal jeune is nutty, sweet, and milky in flavor.  A “sharp” cheese has more of a bite, almost astringent, and has a distinct character, just liked a Cantal vieux.

            There is also a Tomme version of this cheese, which is an unaged Cantal and used in aligot, a very popular mash potato dish rich in cheese.  The dish is unique in the sense that it is often made in giant pots stirred with wooden paddles for a large amount of time to obtain the desired consistency.