May Memoir: Ca va? Stories from Rural Life in Southern France, Chapter 15: Noel

Welcome to May MEMOIR!

Day 16

For the entire month of May, I'll be sharing part of each chapter from my memoir, Ca va?  Stories from Rural Life in Southern France.

My first Christmas in France was interesting. We went to Montpellier and spent time with Christophe’s family. I learned a lot about the importance of the French Nativity scene along with the gastronomic pleasures of the traditional 13 desserts.  Most often, Christmas is celebrated on the 24^th, so I’ll start you where we arrive at his aunt’s house for dinner.

Chapter 15: Noel

            The dinner is relaxed as the courses are served with a leisurely lag time between each, and I notice a Nativity in the corner.  Before the main course is served, I get up for a closer inspection and notice something odd: in addition to the shepherds and the wise men, there is a range of people in the Nativity that I have never seen before.

Christophe notices my interest and explains, “In addition to the Nativity seen at the Church, many families have their own, but it’s generally quite different.  See that woman there?”  He says pointing to a figurine in a skirt carrying a basket full of laundry.  “She’s the lavandière.  Her job is to wash the clothes; she’s in all the Nativity scenes in the Provence region.  This man here is the knife sharpener.  Often, jobs like these that no longer exist are represented in addition to modern day ones we still have.  For example, that person, with the blue, white, and red sash, is the mayor; he is in almost all the homes too.  There is the hermit and there is the Ravi”.

“The Ravi?”  I ask looking at a figure whose arms are thrown into the air.

“A person of simple spirit who is in awe of Jesus”, Christophe explains.  “He is there to present the idea that Jesus resembles everyone.”

It is curious to see these people in the Nativity as he continues, “Many of these people represent careers that were important to the region at one time or another, and these ‘saints’ as they are called, are in proximity to Jesus according to their importance”.

Christophe continues his explanation as dinner arrives, so we return to the table.

“It’s the job of the youngest member of the family to put Jesus in the manger on the 25^th, and the wise men don’t arrive until the Epiphany on January 6^th.  Children are allowed to advance them inch by inch after Christmas.  It’s quite interactive”, he says.

“When Christophe was a child, he never thought we had enough sheep in the Nativity”, his mother explains.  “So we had to go out and buy more sheep.”

“That’s a little foreboding to his later interests”, I say.

“Happily, he didn’t feel that way about the camels”, she adds as the table laughs.

After dinner, the dessert arrives.  It is large platter containing 13 different desserts.  

“This is traditional”, his aunt explains.  “There are 13 desserts that represent Jesus and the 12 apostles.  Within the 13 desserts, there needs to be the 4 Mendiants.  Those are dried figs, almonds, walnuts, and dried grapes; these represent different religious orders: the Dominicans, Franciscans, the Carmelites, and Augustans.  Thirteen desserts are the minimum, but often we have more, and of course, we have la pompe a huile”.

I look at the platter; it is stunning.  There are various nougats and fruits which circle the pompe a huile.  The colors are joyous and natural and the forms are round and organic.  It is quite different from the traditional Christmas cookies I know and represent a whole new palette of flavors.  Gone is the sugary sweet red and green icing thicker than the sugar cookie it sits upon, and in return, I am gifted with a vast array of complex flavors in various textures.  The earthly walnuts blend effortlessly with the smooth nougat and when followed by the sharp tartness of a mandarin orange, I am left with wanting to taste a rustic biscuit hinted with honey and lavender to end on a sweet note.  It is a beautifully orchestrated piece that creates a joyous and emotional end to a meal.