Neufchâtel: I “heart” cheese.

Neufchâtel Coeur de Bray

Given the abundance of cheese France produces, I’ve decided to tackle the subject once a month in a series of posts that bring some of the lesser known cheeses, (at least outside the France borders) into focus.  Some cheeses have a complicated history which I try to boil down to what makes them unique and notable, and others simply developed from “farm cheeses” made to be consumed where they were produced.  Either way, “Cheese” gives me a chance to explore one of the gastronomic delights of France and justify my excursions to a cheese monger as “research”.  And the research can be oh, so grueling…

Neufchâtel, a French cheese from Upper Normandy, is made from unpasteurized cows’ milk.  It is a soft cheese, and is in the same family as a Camembert or Brie.  Its taste falls somewhere between the two, not overly sharp nor sweet and mild.  According to legend, during the 30 year war (1618-1648), young French girls would show their attraction to English soldiers by giving them cheese in the shape of a heart.  Nowadays, the heart shaped cheese is called “Neufchâtel Coeur de Bray”, and the cheese itself is fabricated in other forms and sizes.

The French Neufchâtel should not be confused with the American counterpart, which was created in the late 1800’s by a New York dairy farmer.  His attempts to recreate the French cheese failed, but what he had instead was a low fat version of cheese cream now sold in supermarkets.

Cheese: Morbier

Given the abundance of cheese France produces, I’ve decided to tackle the subject once a month in a series of posts that bring some of the lesser known cheeses, (at least outside the France borders) into focus.  Some cheeses have a complicated history which I try to boil down to what makes them unique and notable, and others simply developed from “farm cheeses” made to be consumed where they were produced.  Either way, “Cheese” gives me a chance to explore one of the gastronomic delights of France and justify my excursions to a cheese monger as “research”.  And the research can be oh, so grueling…

Don’t let the blue line fool you; this cheese has nothing to do with Roquefort or other blues.  In fact, Morbier very mild, delicate, and slightly nutty.  The line that runs through the center is its foremost characteristic.  As the cheese was produced, a layer of protective ash was placed over the curds and then finished off with additional milk gathered in the evening.  Nowadays, the layer is decorative, vegetal in origins, and tastes no differently from the rest of the cheese.

Morbier is made from cow’s milk, most often non-pasteurized, and is considered a semi-soft cheese.  The milk is exclusively produced from two types of cows, the Montbéliarde and Simmental Française whose diet is uniquely pastoral grass and hay.  The cheese is named for the village of the same name in the Jura Mountains of the Franche-Comté region, not far from the Swiss border.  Morbier received AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) standing in December 2000 and since then its production has tripled to over 9,000 tons annually.

 

Cheese: Brique du Forez

Brique du Forez

Given the abundance of cheese France produces, I’ve decided to tackle the subject once a month in a series of posts that bring some of the lesser known cheeses, (at least outside the France borders) into focus.  Some cheeses have a complicated history which I try to boil down to what makes them unique and notable, and others simply developed from “farm cheeses” made to be consumed where they were produced.  Either way, “Cheese” gives me a chance to explore one of the gastronomic delights of France and justify my excursions to a cheese monger as “research”.  And the research can be oh, so grueling…

Cheese: Brique du Forez

Christophe noted a new cheese had been purchased when he opened the fridge this morning, “Whoa, not what I was expecting before my coffee”, he said taking a step back.  “What did you buy?”

Brique du Forez is a soft cheese, made from goat or sheep milk and sometimes mixed with cow’s milk.  Its form is notable: rectangular, 17 centimeters by 8 centimeters and 2.5 centimeters high.  The name, brique, comes from the form of its pine mold in which it is aged.   It is fabricated in Auvergne, Puy de Dôme, which is located in the central and rather cold part of the country.  Traditionally, it is made from raw milk, but like with many other cheeses, its producers are caving into market trends and creating a pasteurized version.

No considerable history on the cheese has been found, except for the fact that the fermentation process has been modified from pressure to the use of lactic curds over the last 20-30 years.

Its texture is creamy, soft and has a slightly hazelnut taste.

Cheese: Chaource

Chaource

Given the abundance of cheese France produces, I’ve decided to tackle the subject once a month in a series of posts that bring some of the lesser known cheeses, (at least outside the France borders) into focus.  Some cheeses have a complicated history which I try to boil down to what makes them unique and notable, and others simply developed from “farm cheeses” made to be consumed where they were produced.  Either way, “Cheese” gives me a chance to explore one of the gastronomic delights of France and justify my excursions to a cheese monger as “research”.  And the research can be oh, so grueling…

Spring and summer are usually the season for fresh cheeses, particularly those made from goat or sheep’s milk.  Many cow’s milk cheeses are better in the fall and winter months, but one cheese I’ve had is ideal for summer: Chaource.

Named for its village of origin in Northeastern France, Chaource’s first noted history is in 1531.  One legend notes that monks from the Abby de Pontigny taught local peasants how to make it.  Originally destined to be consumed on the farm it was fabricated, Chaource acquired its notary during the 19^th Century when cheese connoisseurs would resell the cheese in the local markets of Paris or Lyon.  

Exclusively made from cow’s milk, Chaource takes long to fabricate and is aged between three weeks and two months.  It has had the title AOC or l’Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée since 1970 which means it has a controlled designation of origins and must be manufactured within a certain region.  Chaource is cylindrical in form and is fabricated in two sizes: petit (between 250 and 380 grams) and grand (450 – 700 grams).  It has a very thin eatable rind, is extremely creamy, and develops a slightly hazelnut flavor as it ages.  Produced in the Champagne region, Chaource logically is paired with Champagne or other local wines such as Chablis or a Rosé.

Cheese: Selles-sur-cher

Selles-sur-cher

I love this subject, but more importantly, I love doing the research on this subject.  Sometimes, it can be a bit grueling, tasting all that amazing cheese and all, but I sacrifice myself for the knowledge and for the possibility of sharing that with you.

This month’s cheese is Selles-sur-cher; another unpasteurized goat cheese, which is timely for the season.  Most goat cheeses are at their peak in spring and summer, and some fresh varieties (think softer, younger cheeses) are only available for short amounts of time.  Selles-sur-cher is available year around due to industrial production, but if artisanal, it has limited availability.

The first notable characteristic about this cheese is its rind, which is bluish-black and is a fine mixture of ash and salt.  A thin layer of mold forms on this which is not to be removed when eaten.  The rind is responsible for the cheese’s lightly salty and smoky taste.  The white interior is mild, firm, and slightly nutty.  Overall, this is a creamy dry cheese, but it is considerable light.

Selles-sur-cher is produced in the Centre region of France in the community of Selles-sur-cher.  Selles-sur-cher is a mid-sized town of approximately 4,500 inhabitants and is located about 115 miles southwest of Paris.  The town is also known for its historic château and its abbey (Notre-Dame-la-Blanche) which was constructed in the 12^th Century. 

The origin of the cheese is humble.  It started out as farmed produced for family consumption, but it grew in development during the 19^th Century.  In 1986, it was declared AOC (appellation d'origine contrôlée) and later gained the title AOP (appellation d'origine protégée) in 1996 making Selles-sur-cher a cheese controlled by its conditions of production and its geographic origins.

Château at Selles-sur-cher

Cheese: Brie

Paris: paradise for Brie cheese.  Brie gets its name from the region of Brie, which is situated just east of Paris.  The different types of Brie get their name from their origins of production, such as the cities of Meaux or Melun; however, it is also produced in Germany, England, Canada, and the United States.

Brie can be made from both pasteurized and unpasteurized cows’ milk.  It is a soft rind cheese, covered by a fine, eatable mold and characteristically is mild, aromatic, and lightly acidic. Both the brie de Meaux and the brie de Melun carry the  l'appellation d'origine contrôlé (AOC) label which means the brie must be made within those territorial limits to carry the name.

Brie has unclear origins; however, was considered a favorite by Charlemagne, nobles, and royalty. It was so popular within dignified circles that in 1815, the Congress of Vienna officially recognized brie as the roi de fromages or king of cheeses.  The brie de Meaux was ordained Prince des fromages et premier des desserts (prince of cheeses and the first of desserts).  Popular among all social classes, it was said that, “Brie, liked by the rich and the poor; preached the equality that we never imagined possible” (1793).

Pleasures of the Season: Baked Camembert de Normandy

I couldn’t help with the clichés in the photo, but it’s true: nothing goes better with an aged Camembert than a darn good baguette and a glass of red wine.

“Pleasures of the Season” is a series of posts which appear from time to time.  They focus on something special that occurs only seasonally, often fleeting, and something we anticipate.  The posts are sometimes food related, sometimes not, but highlight moments of what I’ve learned about living with the seasons since moving to Southern France.

Camembert cheese, a product of the Normandy region in Northern France, is probably the most widely consumed cheese in France.  Supermarket aisles are reserved for it alone, and consumers take their time choosing one.  A good cheese needs to be soft and it needs to smell.  If it doesn’t, the cheese is put back with a grimace and another one is picked up for inspection. The wooden boxed stored cheeses are opened, smelled, and squeezed.  I’ve witnessed heated discussions over cheeses and Camembert coinsures have probably spent days over the course of a lifetime picking out the right cheese.

Traditionally produced from unpasteurized cow’s milk, Camembert was first made in 1791 by Marie Harel, a farmer from the Camembert village.  Caving into market demands, most mass produced Camembert cheeses are now made with pasteurized milk, and therefore cannot carry the label AOC (Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée), which is only reserved for those traditionally made with unpasteurized milk.

Camembert cheese is what American nightmares are made of; it is stinky, strong, and builds character the more it’s aged.  We bought a wheel two weeks ago and let it sit in the fridge.  Three days went by and the smell was getting so strong we had to pop it into a Tupperware.  We opened it Saturday night and were almost knocked to the floor the odor was so strong.  Our timing was perfect; it was ripe, soft, and ready to be cooked.

We bake our Camembert in a true country style: in the chimney.  The wooden box is wrapped in foil and placed on glowing ambers.  I’d be hard pressed to find a Parisian who would admit to doing this; however, anyone I’ve spoken to about it speaks rather enthusiastically, so I’m convinced this is a guilty hidden pleasure.  I refuse to hide my guilt; this is a simple gastronomic bliss.  Camembert is rich, creamy, and unctuous.  We reserve it mostly for the winter months when fresh cheeses are scarce, and when it can be devoured in front a warming fire.

Cheese: Mont d’Or

            In the department Haut Doubs of the region Franche-Comté, an unpasteurized cow’s milk cheese of uncompromising quality is produced: Le Mont d’Or.   This slightly pressed, soft cheese holds AOC (Appellation d’Origine Controlée) standing and is produced just along the Swiss border.  There are many particularities about this cheese.  First, it is also produced in Switizerland where it also carries an AOC standing, and together the two cheeses are referred to le vacherin.  Second, the pastures are at least 700 meters in altitude and consist of rich grasses which add to the color and mild creamy texture of the cheese.  The cheese is produced only from mid-August to mid-March from Montbéliarde cows.  Milk from these same cows is used to create Comté cheese in the spring and summer.  Once aged, the cheese is encircled by pine bark before the aging is complete in its cylindrical wood box.  The bark adds a slight flavor that becomes milder closer to the center of the cheese.

            Mont d’Or has a slight aroma, and to some might even be considered a “stinky cheese”; however, I find it to have less of an odor than a Reblochon or Camembert de Normandy.  It’s actually quite mild and delicate.  The rind is slightly stronger in taste, but that is common in soft mold cheeses.  It can be served at room temperature, or warmed in in the oven then spooned over boiled potatoes or served with bread.